Candid Wines | Pressing and Fermenting Chardonnay

Fred Scherrer loads the 2006 Helfer Vineyard Chardonnay into his Swiss and German
presses. Inside of the press is a rubber bladder that Fred slowly inflates to gently squeeze the
juice from the grapes. Red wines need to stay in contact with their skins to extract tannins
and color. Chardonnay is a little like extra virgin olive oil where only the free run juice is
retained.

There are myriad details hidden in this picture that Fred has worked out over time. Do you
see the grey legs on the green press behind Fred? They are extensions that Fred installed in
order to raise the press so his bins can be wheeled underneath with ease. A small detail that
helps the harvest go that much more smoothly. It helps that Fred is a competent welder.

One detail that can be tasted but not seen is the speed at which the motors inflate the
bladders that squeeze the grapes. If they inflate too quickly they extract more of the bitter
compounds from the skins than Fred wants. The lowest factory setting on the motors was
too fast, so Fred opened up the motor and rigged it to turn more slowly. It helps that Fred is
a competent mechanic.

It is amazing how many skills are required to make elegant wine that seemingly have
nothing to do with grapes, vines and yeast. I was reminded of a chef running a small
kitchen, no one comes because the chef is a skilled mechanic, yet no one will come back if the
chef can not fix the stove when it dies during service.

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