who grows the grapes at Malat? who makes the wines?
what wines do they make at Weingut Malat?
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when did Weingut Malat start? when might you open a bottle?
The single vineyard designates from Malat are wines that can be decanted and consumed young or cellared for an extended period. The Gottschelle Erste Lage Grüner Veltliner possesses such depth, power and finesse that it might live for two decades or more, and yet is approachable enough to be featured on the current pairing menu at Elizabeth here in Chicago.
In addition to managing the family’s vineyards, Michael has built a modern, boutique hotel within the structure of a five hundred year old farmhouse on the property. New meets old again and again at Malat.
where is Weingut Malat?
Roughly one hour’s drive west of Vienna, Malat is situated on the banks of the Danube in the heart of the Kremstal in the town of Palt. For a view of the region from above, take a look at this page where Michael showed us the winery, vineyards and the whole of the region from a unique vantage point. The vines are situated on gentle slopes where Loess dominates but gives way to primary rock in places. Gruner is planted on two soil types at Malat: very old decomposed “primary” rocks that are poor in nutrients and require a deep root structure and more windblown deposits of loess that offer the plants more access to nutrition close to the surface. The Gottschelle is grown on the primary rock and shows higher acidity, more minerality, and longer aging potential. The Crazy Creatures comes primarily from the Loess dominated sites and is a touch richer and more easily consumed young.
why is Weingut Malat a Candid Wine? why might you try a bottle?
We were introduced to Weingut Malat by Circo Vino, an importer whose ethos matches our own in terms of wine quality, farming practices and integrity from vine to bottle. Tasting through Michael’s wines, it is instantly clear that site, vine age, and varietal expression are paramount to his philosophy. Taste his Crazy Creatures alongside his Gottschelle Erste Lage and you will find increasing intensity and agreeability quite similar to what we love in Romain Guiberteau’s Chenin Blancs or Klaus Peter Keller’s Riesilngs. The “entry” level wines are beautiful, affordable examples of the grape while the single vineyard selections are both hedonistic and fascinating.
how is the wine made at Weingut Malat?
Michael pays close attention to the natural acidity of each harvest as Gruner can vary from year to year perhaps as much or more than almost any other variety. Warmer years might lead to a bit more whole bunches in the press to increase the acidity while cooler years might see a bit more lees contact to calm what can be bright and edgy acidity.