who grows the grapes? who makes the wines?
what wines do they make?
Across the board, the wines share a sense of balance and a layered and luxurious mouthfeel that is slow to reveal all of its component pieces. “Equilibrium” is a word both Karen and Emmanuel use regularly to describe both their vines and their wines. “Le Rouge” is Grenache based, but has a darker streak than any Grenache we’ve seen outisde of Châteauneuf-du-Pape thanks to the unique volcanic soil on which it grows. “Le Blanc” is a wild child – bottled with extremely low sulfur, marked by CO2, and full of divergent flavors.
In this video Karen walks us through the white wines she and Emmanuel make at the estate. (Video by Bk Wine Tours).
when did the winery start? when might you open a bottle?
Le Rouge is suggested for those who love Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Grenache with bold tannins. Carmina Major is, depending on the vintage, reminiscent of Hermitage with bright peppery spice or the rich earthy tones of Bandol as the Syrah or the Mourvedre play a leading role.
where is the winery?
Of great importance is the Cadables volcano which provides north facing slopes and, long ago, spit out the rocks that now underlie Turner-Pageot’s parcels. Standing in a plot of Syrah on the back side, Emmanuel can point to five parcels within two miles that have drastically different soils, subsoils, and expositions, each of which is planted with a different mix of varieites.
why is it a Candid Wine? why might you want a taste?
If you’ve tasted something intriguing from the Languedoc of late, these wines will be an interesting follow on. If you’ve tasted nothing from Languedoc you liked of late, these will almost surely open a new door for you (assuming top class Bandol, Hermitage, CdP, and or Pouilly Fumé are of interest to you).
how is it made?
Le Blanc is fermented in tank while all the other wines see a blend of old and new oak barrels that skew towards the older. The wines are marked by salinity which is teased out in part by extended macerations well beyond the norm we have seen elsewhere. Emmanuel explains that only after weeks in contact with the juice will skins start to release some of the minerals locked inside their cell structures. This is after tannin and color have come out. The proof is in the pudding, and we find that we salt foods destined to pair with a bottle of Turner Pageot slightly less than we otherwise might.
“Les Choix” is an orange wine made from 100% Marsanne where the white grapes are handled as if a red wine was being made with lengthy maceration. In this video, Emmanuel explained the process for making orange wines like Les Choix. The tannins that are pulled from the skins and stalks make the wine feel vaguely like sandpaper in the mouth, which of course sounds odd, but with a rabbit pate, it is absolutely delicious.