Today’s Washington Post signs the praises of Muscadet, and particularly those of Domaine de l’Ecu. The article is one more arrow in the quiver of those of us whose adore this region and the value that its best producers offer in the form of ageable, single vineyard wines.
My only gripe is with the last line, a throw away “now where are the oysters” comment that yet again misses the point of what the wines can be. Guy and Fred’s single vineyard wines are too big and broad for most oysters. The lees aging makes them denser and more powerful than most bivalves can handle. This is especially true of the 2009 mentioned in the article as it was a riper year that has all sorts of characteristics that drive one to think of foods that Mersault might pair with, not Chablis. These wines need the richness of scallops, the earthiness of roasted mushrooms (when aged), the fat of an exceptionally well roasted chicken, or even the layers of curried cream sauces. Want Muscadet and Oysters? Order up an Amphibolite from Jo Landron, made intentionally without lees contact and meant to be drunk young.
You can find wines from Jo, Guy, and Fred at Pastoral, Grace, Cru, Feast, Whole Foods and Joe’s Wine Shop, among many, many, others. The Granite mentioned in the article is available in magnums over at Red and White, too.
From the Post:
“My favorite muscadet producer, whom I’ve written about before, is Guy Bossard, of Domaine de l’Ecu. Bossard produces three cuvees based on the type of subsoil in his vineyards: gneiss, orthogneiss and granite. The vineyards are farmed according to biodynamic principles — an extreme version of organic — and achieve a remarkable expression of their individual terroirs. These wines are another example of the importance of geology in wine appreciation. Bossard also makes a delicious sparkling wine called Cuvee Ludwig Hahn.
“Winegrower Guy Bossard makes separate muscadet cuvees based on the soil types of his various vineyards, all of which are farmed according to biodynamic principles. His wines tend to be richer, fatter and riper than most muscadets, with juicy fruit flavors and an inherent mineral quality that gives them verve.”