
| candid: indicating or suggesting sincere honesty and absence of deception (webster) |
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| keller |
| In Mark Helprin's beautifully written novel A Soldier of the Great War the aging hero describes lying under a tree on a summer day and the intense pleasure he takes in his futile attempts to count all the shades of green present in the foliage at any one moment. Try it sometime. There is something transcendent about focusing on the individual details that make up a beautiful whole. Almost imperceptibly, one's attention shifts from textures and nuances of an individual leaf to the contrast between the deep brown of a branch, to the general green of the tree framed against the summer sky. What is more rewarding, the details or the whole? On what grounds might one aspect be considered more pleasurable than another? Klaus Peter Keller's wines contain all the beauty, the incredulity, and the wonder of a mature tree framed by the deep blue sky of an August day. If you let your self be swept away by their depth, you'll soon be lost in both their details and their remarkable complexity. These wines have a power to make wine lovers happy in complex and contradictory ways. They are as rich and deep as they are crisp and clean. They are at once hedonistic and intellectual. They inspire prose and demand silence. Keller's wines contain what we hope for in every bottle we open and so rarely find. They are why we drink wine. |
| Eric Asimov, from the New York Times, writes that Keller's "single-vineyard wines labeled grosses gewäches, a newly devised term that ought to be the equivalent of the French grand cru" are "hard to find". He should call Candid! We have: 2006 Riesling Trocken "S" 2006 Riesling Spatlese 2006 Riesling "RR" 2006 Westhofener Kirschpiel Riesling Auslese 2004 Dalsheimer Hubacker Reisling Auslese And tiny amounts of: 2006 Westhofener Kirschpiel "Grosses Gewaches" 2006 Dalsheimer Hubacker "Grosses Gewaches" 2005 Burgel Spatburgunder. |