SEAN O'CALLAGHAN'S CHIANTI CLASSICO REVOLUTION: FROM GEISENHEIM TO TRE BICCHIERI AT TENUTA DI CARLEONE

When Gambero Rosso awarded Tenuta di Carleone's Chianti Classico "Tre Bicchieri" for 2025, they joined Antonio Galloni of Vinous Media in recognizing something extraordinary. As Galloni notes: "Sean O'Callaghan makes some of the most distinctive wines in all of Chianti Classico, and Italy, for that matter. O'Callaghan is among the growers who are challenging long-established norms of what Chianti Classico (the wine) is and what it can be through the use of stems, alternative aging vessels and an overall approach that favors freshness more than size."

For 14 years, Candid Wines has been Sean O'Callaghan's exclusive Illinois importer, documenting his evolution from Riecine cellar master to Tenuta di Carleone through exclusive video interviews in Chicago and Tuscany. This is his complete story.

Sean O'Callaghan at Bar Parisette in Chicago

The Unlikely Journey: From Sri Lanka to Sangiovese

"My name is Sean O'Callaghan... born in Sri Lanka, then in the early '70s we moved back to England," Sean begins, recounting a path that would take him from an English boarding school to become one of Chianti Classico's most innovative producers.

The wine world called to Sean early. His uncle planted a small vineyard near Somerset, and at 18, a family connection led him to Germany's Nahe Valley. "I ended up working in a small winery and then moved on to a neighboring winery called Schloss Böckelheim... and it had just been taken over by Armin Diehl, who was restructuring everything into much more high quality, high-end producer."

This experience at one of Germany's premier estates sparked Sean's passion for precision winemaking. "I just loved the whole background of being inside and outside, and then every vintage was different."

Geisenheim University: The Foundation

Seeking formal education, Sean discovered Geisenheim University across the Rhine River. "In Geisenheim there was this world famous university for wine and viticulture and enology... I managed to get through the first year of maths and physics and chemistry, and then in the second year we started talking about wine."

The four-year program (extended due to language barriers) at Germany's most prestigious wine university provided Sean with technical expertise that would later inform his revolutionary approach to Chianti Classico. This German precision and attention to detail became fundamental to his winemaking philosophy.

Tuscany Calling: The Riecine Years (1991-2017)

"When I finished, I handed in my thesis and got in my beaten-up old Golf and drove down to Tuscany on holiday... I'd read about this guy called John Dunkley in a Decanter magazine, so I rang him up... love at first sight, we called like a house on fire, he offered me a job."

What Sean thought would be "one year, a couple of years" at Riecine became 26 transformative years. "March '91 I turned up in Tuscany... it ended up being 26 [years] at Riecine." Working alongside John Dunkley, Sean witnessed Chianti Classico's quality revolution firsthand.

Understanding Chianti's Quality Revolution

During his Riecine years, Sean observed the dramatic transformation of Chianti Classico from a quantity-focused region to quality-driven appellation. "This area up until even the '70s was basically run by the mezzadria system, which is a sharecropping system... Half of [the crop] would go to the lord of the manor, which meant basically they'd make quantity. The quality aspect was non-existent."

The mezzadria system was "forbidden in 1979, so it's really fairly recent. The whole mentality of this area is still very much mezzadria... The mentality of quality in this area is very, very new."

This historical context explains why Sean's approach feels revolutionary. "What happened then is that we got wealthy people coming in and buying beautiful houses... and found they had three or four hectares of vineyard... and slowly but surely people started making wine, wanted to make quality."

The Geography Lesson: Why Location Matters

Sean's deep understanding of Chianti Classico geography informs his winemaking decisions. "You've got the central area - up here you got Florence and then down here you got Siena. That area is Chianti Classico. All around the outside, you got Chianti Senese, Chianti Aretino, the Florentine area, the Pisa area."

The confusion this creates for consumers troubles Sean: "If you go into America and people talk about Chianti, I don't think they actually know the difference... they're all called Chianti." His Radda location puts him in what he calls "the high country" - premium Chianti Classico terroir.

The Sangiovese Philosophy: Tradition Over Trends

Sean's commitment to 100% Sangiovese stems from deep conviction about Chianti's identity. "The law says minimum 80% Sangiovese, maximum 100% Sangiovese. A lot of my colleagues use the other 20% to make the wine a little bit bigger—they'll add in Merlot or Cabernet. But I'm just trying to make wines that I really enjoy drinking—wines I want to drink."

Nik Wells, Janan Asfour, Sean O'Callaghan and Tom MacDonald at Webster's Wine Bar

His philosophy is rooted in terroir respect: "I think this area should be a Sangiovese area because the area is traditional like that... I think we should be trying to make the best Sangiovese in the world rather than try and complicate matters by copying other people."

This wasn't always legal. Sean reveals how top producers circumvented DOCG regulations: "John... hadn't put any white grapes in the wine, even though he'd had the DOCG... This was the top wine producers through the '70s, through the '80s—they're all doing that." The 1994 DOCG revision finally allowed what Sean believed: pure Sangiovese expression.

Carleone Birth: The Garage Winery (2015)

After 26 years at Riecine, Sean was ready for his own project. "I'd met this really fun family... and he had three hectares of vineyard... right opposite Montevertine in Radda, and he said, 'Why don't we do a joint project?' That's how Tenuta di Carleone started."

"It started basically in 2015-16... I quickly set up a cellar in an old garage, which we rented—two cellars actually, in two garages." From these humble beginnings, Sean began crafting wines that would earn international recognition.

The Burgundian Approach to Chianti

Sean's revolutionary method treats Chianti Classico like Burgundian village wine. "The Chianti Classico is, uh, like a village wine from Burgundy. So all our 32 hectares are situated in various places around the Radda area, and every vineyard is fermented separately."

This site-specific approach is uncommon in Chianti Classico, where most producers blend during fermentation. Sean's method allows him to understand each vineyard's contribution before creating the final blend.

Technical Innovation: Whole Bunches and Long Macerations

"We put the wines mostly into cement tanks—we have a bit of stainless steel, but it's mostly cement. What I'm doing, which is a bit different from everybody else, is using whole bunches and long macerations, because I really want the wines to be elegant."

The techniques seem contradictory: "If you pick and ferment very quickly, you get bigger, more extracted wines. I'm looking for the complete opposite—wines that have more elegance and finesse."

The process:

• 40 to 50% whole bunches in fermentation

• Three to four months on the skins (versus typical 2-3 weeks)

• Separate fermentation for each vineyard plot

• Cement tanks for neutral aging

"People think it's going to be really tannic and tight, but it actually has incredible drinkability and smoothness, which is pretty typical of old-style Chianti Classicos—but this is sort of reinventing the old-style Chianti Classicos from the '90s."

Tasting Profile: The Drinkability Revolution

Sean's approach creates wines with unexpected immediate appeal. "I think the Chianti Classico should have wonderful drinkability; it should have all those red fruits; it should have a length to it that will give it the possibility to age as well."

What to expect:

• Red fruit character: Cherry, strawberry, pomegranate

• Spicy elements: From whole bunch fermentation

• Smooth tannins: Despite extended maceration

• Fresh acidity: Maintains Sangiovese's brightness

• Immediate appeal: Drinks beautifully upon release

As Sean puts it: "The most important thing about this wine is its huge drinkability. When you open a bottle and taste it, you just want to drink it."

His personal testimony: "I take a bottle home to drink and, while I'm cooking, it tends to empty itself before we get to dinner."

Sean with the Tenuta di Carleone lineup in Chicago

Critical Recognition: Antonio Galloni and Tre Bicchieri

Sean's approach has earned critical acclaim from Italy's most respected voices. Antonio Galloni of Vinous Media notes: "Sean O'Callaghan routinely turns out compelling, engaging wines that challenge perceptions of what Chianti Classico is and what it can be. Stem inclusion, long macerations and aging in neutral vessels are some of the choices that inform wines of transparency and class."

The 2025 Tre Bicchieri award from Gambero Rosso represents the pinnacle of Italian wine recognition—fewer than 20 Chianti Classicos typically receive this honor annually from hundreds of producers.

Understanding Tre Bicchieri Awards

Gambero Rosso's "Tre Bicchieri" (Three Glasses) represents the highest rating in Italy's most influential wine guide. Only exceptional wines demonstrating perfect balance between territory, grape variety, and winemaker skill receive this honor. For an Irish winemaker working in Tuscany's most traditional appellation to earn this recognition speaks to Sean's mastery of Sangiovese.

The Consortium Challenge

Sean understands the complexities facing Chianti Classico's governing body: "The problem with the consortium is that they're trying to cater for everybody. You've got the big guys, big bottlers who make millions of bottles, and then you have the small producers like us."

This tension between mass production and artisanal quality continues to shape the appellation's identity and regulations.

Food Pairing and Serving

Sean's drinkable style works beautifully with diverse cuisines:

Traditional Pairings:

• Bistecca alla Fiorentina

• Wild boar ragù

• Pecorino Toscano

• Parmigiano-Reggiano

Modern Applications:

• Grilled meats (the wine's freshness cuts through richness)

• Casual drinking (as Sean demonstrates)

• Progressive Italian cuisine

Serving Suggestions:

• Serve at 60-65°F (15-18°C)

• Decant 30 minutes for optimal aromatics

• Drink now for freshness or age 8-12 years

  
  

Frequently Asked Questions

What makes Sean O'Callaghan's approach unique in Chianti Classico?

Sean combines German technical precision with Irish outsider perspective, using whole bunch fermentation and extended macerations to create elegant, immediately drinkable wines rather than extracted, powerful styles.

Why does Sean choose 100% Sangiovese?

Sean believes Chianti Classico should express pure Sangiovese character rather than international varieties: "I think we should be trying to make the best Sangiovese in the world rather than complicate matters by copying other people."

What is whole bunch fermentation and why does Sean use it?

Whole bunch fermentation includes grape stems during fermentation, adding spicy, floral notes while creating more elegant extraction. Despite longer maceration times, this technique produces silkier tannins.

How is Carleone Chianti Classico different from other producers?

Sean treats each vineyard plot separately (like Burgundy), uses cement tanks for neutral aging, and prioritizes drinkability over power—creating wines that "empty themselves" while cooking dinner.

Where can I buy Tenuta di Carleone wines?

In Illinois, Candid Wines is the exclusive importer. Contact info@candidwines.com for restaurant and retail availability of these sought-after wines.

What does the Tre Bicchieri award mean?

Gambero Rosso's "Tre Bicchieri" represents Italy's highest wine rating, awarded to fewer than 20 Chianti Classicos annually. It recognizes exceptional balance between terroir, variety, and winemaking skill.

The Legacy: 34 Years in the Making

From a teenage visit to his uncle's English vineyard to earning Italy's most prestigious wine award, Sean O'Callaghan's journey represents the globalization of wine excellence. His story proves that great winemaking transcends nationality—it requires only passion, education, and respect for terroir.

At Tenuta di Carleone, Sean continues proving that Chianti Classico's future lies not in following international trends, but in perfecting what makes Sangiovese and Tuscan terroir unique. His Tre Bicchieri recognition validates an approach that honors tradition while embracing innovation.

For Illinois wine professionals seeking exceptional Chianti Classico, Sean's sought-after wines represent 34 years of Italian winemaking mastery available exclusively through Candid Wines' long-standing partnership.

Contact Candid Wines at info@candidwines.com to experience Sean O'Callaghan's award-winning Chianti Classico revolution.