FROM MUSIC STUDENT TO NYC SOMMELIER TO MICHIGAN WINEMAKER: ALEX MCNEELY’S POETSON WINE STORY
- Damien Casten
- Aug 6
- 9 min read
Updated: Aug 11
How a NYC sommelier returned to his Michigan roots to craft wines that speak of place and tradition
The Son of the Poet: A New Voice in Michigan Wine
Michigan wine continues gaining recognition, with industry publications like Wine Enthusiast highlighting how "Chicagoans are getting wise to wine country in their backyards" and noting that "people are taking Michigan wine more seriously" than ever before. Among the new generation of Michigan winemakers stands Alex McNeely, founder of Poetson Wine, whose journey from Berklee College of Music student to NYC sommelier to Michigan winemaker represents a unique path in the state's wine scene.
Founded in 2023, Poetson Wine derives its name from McNeely's surname - McNeely means "son of the poet" - reflecting a winemaker who found his authentic voice through what he calls "the lens of soil and sun." As McNeely explains on the If Vines Could Talk podcast, "I found in wine everything that I was looking for in poetry, in the written word, in music."
What distinguishes McNeely is his combination of professional sommelier experience and deep regional connection. After a decade as a beverage director and sommelier in New York City, he returned to his Southwest Michigan roots specifically to make wine - a career transition that brings both world-class professional experience and authentic local commitment to Lake Michigan Shore winemaking.
According to Damien Casten, Founder and CEO of Candid Wines, "Poetson is the most successful launch we've had in twenty years in business. The wines sold out to Michelin-starred restaurants and some of Chicago's best wine bars within a month. Michigan wine, made by someone as skilled as Alex, has arrived."
The Creative Foundation: From Berkelee to Beer to Beverage Director
A talented musician, McNeely's education began at the Berklee College of Music where, like so many aspiring artists, he took a side job in a café. "I was always sort of beverage focused, but really liked sharing the idea of these craft drinks," McNeely explained on the If Vines Could Talk podcast. He quickly found that the café's craft beer and drinks were where his passion lay.
The progression from coffee to beer to cocktails to wine represents a methodical exploration of beverage complexity. Each step built his palate and understanding of fermentation, flavor development, and hospitality operations.
The pivotal realization came during his cocktail years: "After a few years running cocktail-focused beverage programs, I realized that nothing was ever as complex or as complete as what happens in wine, especially in a bottle over time." This insight drove his transition from service to production.
McNeely's creative background influences his winemaking approach, which he describes less as creativity and more as stewardship: "I'm very much trying to assess the fruit at hand, and then make decisions that allow that fruit to be the best wine possible." This philosophy reflects both his artistic training and analytical problem-solving approach.
The NYC Sommelier Years: Building An Unmatched Beverage Resumé
McNeely's decade on the East Coast - five years in Boston and ten in New York City - established professional credentials that distinguish him within Michigan's wine community. His advancement into beverage management roles demonstrated both aptitude and ambition, culminating in significant wine program development experience.
His breakthrough position came at Lilia, a Brooklyn restaurant focusing on Italian cuisine with an all-Italian wine list. "I had about a year to prep before the restaurant was due to open, and it was kind of like, all right, delve in and learn everything you can about Italian wine," McNeely recalls. This intensive study period became his wine education foundation.
The sommelier experience provided crucial insights into wine service, food pairing, and consumer preferences that inform his production decisions. "Running that program on the floor selling wine, you're really every single table going down this path of discovery with the guest," he explains, emphasizing how direct consumer interaction shaped his understanding of wine appreciation.
The decision to transition from service to production crystallized during a 2016 distributor trip to Tuscany's Maremma region. "I was up late one night with the owner of this import company, and we literally stayed up until the sun came up with him trying to talk me out of it," McNeely recalls. Despite professional discouragement, he pursued production education.
His sommelier background provides advantages in Michigan winemaking: professional palate development, understanding of wine service requirements, knowledge of distribution channels, and direct experience with consumer preferences.
Michigan Terroir Discovery: Recognizing Regional Potential
McNeely's return to Michigan was strategic, based on professional assessment of the region's potential. Growing up in Southwest Michigan's Allegan, Pullman, and Fennville areas, he was aware of local grape growing but hadn't considered it seriously until viewing the region through expanded wine knowledge.
"Looking back at Michigan, and the unique growing situation that happens within 10 to 12 miles of the Lake Michigan coast, I started to realize that there was incredible potential that had only just started to be realized or met," he explains. This recognition came from comparing Michigan's climate advantages to cool-climate regions worldwide.
The pandemic provided the professional pause necessary for career transition, while Michigan wine recognition was accelerating nationally. McNeely pursued formal education at Lake Michigan College, demonstrating commitment to understanding local conditions.
Through the college program, he connected with mentor Mike DeShaff, whose guidance provided crucial fruit sources and local knowledge. "Through mentorship with him, I was able to get my first fruit sources, and that really started to make this possible," McNeely acknowledges.
McNeely focuses specifically on the Lake Michigan Shore AVA's characteristics, particularly the "three B's" area (Baroda, Berrien Springs, Buchanan) where he identifies ideal conditions for his winemaking style. This geographic specificity demonstrates understanding of Michigan's microclimatic variations.
Technical Approach: Professional Precision Meets Terroir Expression
McNeely's winemaking techniques reflect his sommelier background's emphasis on balance, drinkability, and food compatibility. His approach centers on gentle handling, extended macerations, and minimal intervention - techniques that preserve delicate fruit character.
Méthode Ancestrale Production
McNeely's sparkling wine production demonstrates understanding of both traditional and modern techniques. His méthode ancestrale Pinot Gris incorporates Champenois refinements while maintaining pét-nat character: "We do long lees aging in bottle, followed by hand riddling and disgorging, so we're utilizing techniques here from the Champenois method."
This approach addresses common pét-nat issues that his sommelier experience identified: "A lot of domestic wineries will think about pét-nat as something that you release early with the yeast still in the bottle. This can create a very muddied expression."
The Lake Michigan Shore AVA provides suitable chemistry for sparkling production: "Even when you get to peak ripeness, you still have acid, and that's something you absolutely need to make a solid sparkling wine."
Extended Maceration Techniques
McNeely's red wine production emphasizes gentle extraction through extended contact time rather than mechanical manipulation. His Pinot Noir/Pinot Gris co-fermentation underwent 34 days of maceration with no pump-overs or punch-downs, achieving extraction through "infusion-style maceration."
This approach reflects his understanding of Pinot Noir's delicate nature and Pinot Gris's tannin contribution: "Pinot Gris is considerably more tannic and has a noticeable spice, a pepper quality, which plays incredibly well with the Pinot Noir from Old Shore."
Equipment and Fermentation
McNeely uses egg-shaped fermenters for specific technical advantages, providing gentle circulation without mechanical intervention. His extended fermentation capabilities are demonstrated by Riesling that fermented over six months. Speaking in June of 2024, Alex said "my Riesling is just now pretty much finished. Riesling never stopped fermenting. It was just very, very slow all winter."
All wines undergo native yeast fermentation, supporting his philosophy: "By using native yeasts and working without additions beyond what's in the grape itself, each wine reflects its origins."
Wine Portfolio: 2023 Debut and Market Response
2023 Inaugural Vintage
McNeely's first vintage produced four wines from three varietals:
Pinot Noir (Old Shore Vineyard): Showcases Lake Michigan Shore's bright red-berry character. "Old Shore wants to show you this wealth of bright red-berry fruit - cranberry, pomegranate. It wants to be bright, acid-driven," McNeely explains. The 2023 vintage presented botrytis challenges, leading to 60% whole-cluster fermentation for tannin protection.
Pinot Noir/Pinot Gris Co-fermentation: A 50-50 blend demonstrating vineyard character through varietal combination. "I really wanted to make a wine that, above all else, was a sort of embodiment of the essence of the vineyard," he explains. The wine fermented for 30 days in egg vessels.
Méthode Ancestrale Pinot Gris: Sparkling wine incorporating Champenois techniques with pét-nat spontaneity, featuring extended lees aging and hand riddling.
Skin-Contact Grüner Veltliner: Michigan interpretation showcasing the grape's "slightly vegetal cucumber, white pepper, with stone fruits behind it." Malolactic conversion creates roundness while maintaining 11.8% alcohol.
Market Success Through Candid Wines
Poetson's IL launch through Candid Wines achieved remarkable success in the Chicago market. The wines sold out to Michelin-starred restaurants and premium wine bars within a month, demonstrating both quality and market demand for professionally crafted Michigan wine.
I am excited to see Alex grow as a farmer and mentor and as a pioneer for really good southwest Michigan wines. The time is now. He made a huge impression at Soif and I’m excited to see what's next. He got a lot of community, including me and Nik. -Tonya Pyatt (Co-Owner, Websters Wine Bar)
This success reflects the combination of McNeely's skill, Candid Wines' established relationships, and growing appreciation for Michigan wine among discerning buyers. The rapid sellout indicates that restaurants and wine bars recognized the quality and uniqueness of the offering.
I think Damien Casten said it best, and I am paraphrasing here, that ‘Alex is methodical and precise'. His wines mirror this along with his inclusivity and unpresuming intelligence. They are honest and take inspiration from lessons learned all over the world, most definitely drawing from Alex’s experiences working in wine. -Nik Wells, Co-Owner, Webster Wine Bar
Regional Focus: Lake Michigan Shore
McNeely's positioning within Michigan wine benefits from his professional background and strategic regional focus. His focus on the "three B's" area (Baroda, Berrien Springs, Buchanan) reflects understanding of Lake Michigan Shore AVA sub-regions.
"It's a really magical section of Lake Michigan Shore," he explains, identifying this area as containing significant wine grape plantings in Southwest Michigan. His focus on specific vineyard sites, like Old Shore, demonstrates commitment to terroir expression rather than broad regional blending.
The proximity to Chicago provides commercial advantages that McNeely leverages through Candid Wines distribution. His sommelier background creates credibility with beverage professionals in both Detroit and Chicago markets.
Food Pairing and Service Perspective
McNeely's sommelier background provides advantages in food pairing guidance. His wines are designed with restaurant service in mind, emphasizing balance and food compatibility.
The skin-contact Grüner Veltliner showcases this philosophy: "I want to see it with those more delicate options, where this is playing into flavors that are already there, and it's more of an assist than it is stealing the show."
His Pinot Noir/Pinot Gris co-fermentation fills a specific niche: "I don't think I'll ever make a rosé, but this kind of took that place for me - a lighter red that could be chilled, just has more information, and there's a little bit more of a vinous quality than a lot of rosés."
Future Plans: Estate Development and Growth
McNeely's goals focus on estate development within the Lake Michigan Shore AVA, specifically seeking land in his preferred "three B's" region. "I'm hoping to find some magical piece of land in the next year or so," he explains, planning to transition from fruit purchasing to vineyard control.
His production philosophy emphasizes sustainable expansion while maintaining quality and personal control. "It's important for me to maintain full control over the direction of it," he states, describing measured growth that preserves artisanal character.
Long-term vision includes exploring additional varieties alongside his current focus, demonstrating openness to Michigan's grape growing potential while maintaining quality standards.
Technical Notes
Annual Production: Small-lot, quality-focused production Vineyard Sources: Old Shore Vineyard, Outcross, Leelanau Peninsula, Old Mission Peninsula
Winemaking Philosophy: Minimal intervention, native yeast fermentation, no additions beyond grapes
Key Techniques: Extended maceration, egg-shaped fermenters, méthode ancestrale sparkling
Distribution: Candid Wines (Illinois exclusive), direct-to-consumer via Poetson Wine. Self-distribution in Michigan.
Availability: Select Chicago restaurants and wine bars. 57th Street, Websters Wine Bar, All Together Now, Easy Does It. Call first - the wines sell out fast.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does "son of the poet" mean for Poetson Wine? Poetson derives from McNeely's surname - McNeely means "son of the poet" in Gaelic. The name reflects his creative background and philosophical approach to winemaking as expression through terroir.
Where can I find Poetson wines in Illinois? Poetson wines are distributed exclusively in Illinois by Candid Wines and are available at select Chicago restaurants and wine bars. Contact Candid Wines for current availability and locations.
What makes Alex McNeely's background unique in Michigan? McNeely combines professional NYC sommelier experience with Michigan roots, bringing restaurant industry knowledge and professional wine evaluation skills to his winemaking decisions.
Which Poetson wines work best with food? All Poetson wines are designed for food pairing, reflecting McNeely's sommelier background. The skin-contact Grüner Veltliner (11.8% alcohol) offers particular versatility, while the Pinot Noir/Pinot Gris co-fermentation provides unique light red options.
How do Poetson wines reflect Michigan terroir? McNeely's techniques preserve the bright, acid-driven fruit character he identifies as Lake Michigan Shore's signature. Native yeast fermentation and minimal intervention allow vineyard character to express clearly.
What's the significance of the rapid sellout in Chicago? The sellout to Michelin-starred restaurants and premium wine bars within a month demonstrates that Chicago's demanding wine scene recognizes both the quality and value of professionally crafted Michigan wine.
Poetson wines are available through Candid Wines' Illinois distribution to restaurants, wine bars, and retailers. For trade inquiries and current availability, contact Candid Wines directly.
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