A WINEMAKER'S PERSPECTIVE: ALEX MCNEELY'S DEEP DIVE INTO LOUIS CHENU PÈRE ET FILLES AND SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE TERROIR
- Damien Casten
- Aug 9
- 4 min read
Updated: Aug 9
When a sommelier turned winemaker visits Burgundy, they see details that others miss. In 2024, Candid Wines' Alex McNeely traveled to Savigny-lès-Beaune to spend time with the Chenu sisters at their family estate. Here's his insider analysis of why Louis Chenu Père et Filles represents exceptional value in Premier Cru Burgundy.
Understanding Savigny-lès-Beaune's Unique Geography
"Savigny-les-Beaune," Alex explains, "is the third largest appellation in the Côtes de Beaune but all 22 Premiere Cru are in a very very small area on two hills at the southern tip of the appellation. Sandwiched between the communes of Savigny-lès-Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses, Aloxe-Corton, and Beaune. They take up two hills on opposite sides of the small Rhoin stream."
“This geography creates distinct terroir differences that directly impact wine style. As McNeely explains: ‘To the east of the stream we have the top Premiers Crus of Aux Serpentières and Aux Vergelesses, and sandwiched between those we have the crus we’re working with here—Aux Clous and Les Lavières. On the opposite side of the Rhoin stream, adjacent to Beaune, we have Mont Battois.’”
The Rhoin as a Dividing Line
The small Rhoin stream is a dividing line between the two sides of the valley. McNeely notes: "Typically on the east side of the stream we see wines that are light and pure and on the west side owing to a difference in aspect as well as more sand in the soil and a little bit of Iron Stone we have a little bit more of a tannic bite and a sort of a rustic quality."
This geographic insight helps us remember that Louis Chenu's different Premier Cru sites produce such distinctive wine styles, despite their proximity.
Enhanced Vineyard Profiles
Aux Clous: Etymology and Prestigious Neighbors
Building on the existing description, Alex provides context: ‘The name is an alternate word meaning Clos, so here we are designating a walled site, and this shares a border with the top cru Aux Serpentières, which Chandon de Briailles makes into a very well-known bottling.
This proximity to one of Savigny's most celebrated vineyards underscores the quality potential of Louis Chenu's Aux Clous site. Burgundy lovers unfamiliar with Chenu will likely not know Aux Clous as the family owns nearly 90% of the site.
Les Hauts-Jarrons: Iron Stone and Carnal Character
Alex expands on the existing vineyard description with specific geological insights: "For Haut Jarrons, we are on the other side of the Rhoin. This is the top aspect of the Jarrons Vineyard where we see limestone and sand and at this higher elevation we get more iron Stone this does have a more sort of carnal Savory element to it with that little bit more tannic edge."
This geological detail explains the wine's distinctive character and why McNeely specifically recommends it for heartier food pairings and especially red meat.
Vintage Analysis: 2018 as a Case Study
"Now 2018, while generally considered a legendary vintage for burgundy was the hottest and driest summer slash fall on record since 2003. Typically wines from this vintage show high alcohol but due to a cool wet spring and ample water in the soils they do keep a freshness and good acidity."
For Louis Chenu specifically, McNeely highlights exceptional balance: "What I love here owing to the South and the Eastern aspect we're still at a very balanced 12 and a half percent here with very good fruit concentration and ample aromatics."
This analysis demonstrates how vineyard positioning and winemaking technique can maintain elegance even in challenging, hot vintages.
Professional Food Pairing Recommendations
Michelin-Star Restaurant Success
Alex's expertise with Louis Chenu wines extends beyond analysis to real-world placement success. He has successfully placed Les Hauts-Jarrons on the wine list at Alinea, Chicago's three-Michelin-star restaurant, demonstrating the wine's ability to meet the most demanding culinary standards. The Bourgogne Rouge and Les Lavières can be found at RPM Seafood in Chicago, showcasing the versatility of Louis Chenu's portfolio across different dining contexts.
Steakhouse and Restaurant Applications
When asked about placement on a steakhouse wine list, he recommends: "Haut Jarrons, for sure. We have that carnal aspect a Savory component that's great with grilled meat and this is going to show fruit concentration that someone looking for an American Pinot would appreciate as well as tannin to stand up to the protein."
But Les Hauts Jarrons is by no means limited to Steakhouses. Indeed, it has been a mainstay on the list at Alinea, where it complements some of Chicago's most innovative and technically demanding cuisine.
Louis Chenu's Position Among Savigny's Elite
McNeely places Louis Chenu in the context of its peers: "Simone Bize and Chandon de Brialles are the two top domains and the winemaking is very similar. We see de-stemming, full berry fermentations with a short cold soak before fermentations, which are started with Native yeast at the classic sort of cool, Burgundy cellar temperature. So we're looking here at similar wine making, similar vineyards and underdog pricing."
This analysis is particularly valuable, positioning Louis Chenu as delivering the same quality winemaking and terroir as Savigny's most prestigious producers, but at more accessible pricing - exactly the kind of value proposition that makes Burgundy discoveries so exciting.
Winemaking at Domaine Louis Chenu
Alex explains the traditional approach detailed in our existing content: "The wine making is classic for Burgundy: Reds are destemmed, they see a short cold soak before native fermentations at cool temperatures with daily cap manipulations over about two weeks. The wines are barreled down for 18 months and a small percentage new oak, and are typically not filtered before bottling."
"For the elusive whites, the grapes go direct to the press. Fermentations are with Native yeast in used barrels and the wines are kept on lees for 12 months before filtering at bottling.
About Alex McNeely: Winemaker, Wine Rep, and Sommelier.
Alex McNeely brings a unique dual perspective to wine analysis as both a practicing winemaker and seasoned wine professional. After a decade as a sommelier and beverage director in New York City at prestigious establishments including The Spotted Pig and Lilia, Alex pursued formal education in Enology and Viticulture at Lake Michigan College. He's worked harvests on the Sonoma Coast and in Oregon's Willamette Valley, and recently founded Michigan's acclaimed Poetson Wine.
